September 10 - Buffalo


I had forgotten how difficult it is to negotiate a foreign city riding a bicycle. Seattle did not count, because I know all the optimal routes, Bismarck did not count because it really cannot be termed a metropolitan area. I did not ride all the way into Chicago, so I cannot say that I struggled with city traffic there. But today I spent most of the day cycling around the city of Buffalo. The approach to the city was not too bad because it was mid-day and the sun had finally made an appearance after four days on vacation. But I didn't get out of the Buffalo area until the evening commute and, although I had been told there was a wide shoulder to ride on, for much of the way that wide shoulder had been replaced with another lane for cars, so they could easily get into and out of the endless shopping malls along the way. I was truly in the wrong place at the wrong time, but I had to get through it, and with patience and care I got to Lockport.

Many people had suggested that I begin my Erie Canal segment at Lockport. Although it is not at the westernmost point of the canal, it has become the de facto terminus at this end of the state. The town seems to be thriving on the nostalgia of the artificial waterway, and historic buildings and structures abound. Everything is centered around the two locks right in the middle of town, which lift (or drop) boats more than fifty feet. More on the canal later.

The main reason for approaching Buffalo so closely was to stop at the cycling museum in Orchard Park. I had heard that this was a remarkable place, and was not disappointed, even after months of anticipation. They have a vast collection of bikes, dating from the early nineteenth century, as well as interesting assemblages of various componentry, (bells, lights, tools, etc), and various displays depicting the bicycle's role in sport, recreation, transportation, and even the military. My only gripe would be that the displays were so densely packed with material that it was hard to see everything. It seemed that it would still be crowded with twice the floor space.

The owner of the museum said that they had just had the annual meeting the bicycle historians there last week. I would have loved to attend, but maybe next year in Glasgow.

The following excerpts are from Mr. Babcock's journal, as he made his way toward the east:

August 19, 1896 Jefferson, Ohio

Have spent the past week wheeling about Ashtabula County, visiting friends. A few days ago Turner started on and expected to make North Brookfield by the 22nd.

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August 20, 1896 Idlewood, New York

Tom Fetch and I left Jefferson this morning at 4:20 for Idlewood. We had good roads and arrived at 6:30. Took breakfast at Conneaut, and dinner at North East, PA. Supper with cousin Theodore Richmond at Idlewood. Tom went on to Buffalo after supper. Trolley car funeral at Erie. Sign says coasting is dangerous.

meter 135 , 3618 - expense .90

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August 21, 1896 Buffalo, New York

Staid at Idlewood until after lunch and then took a run around town. Met Fetch at about the city limits. Went out by Mr. Welch's and they wouldn't let me come away today. In the afternoon we took in the park, and this evening we went to a band concert in the park. 150 miles of asphalt in Buffalo and 10 miles under contract. No lamps required. Never saw a bloomer.

meter 49 , 3607 - expense 0

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This fellow Fetch was the one who rode to meet them in Cleveland, and also accompanied Mr. Turner to Buffalo, as well. He is also reported to have been the first person to drive an automobile from the west coast to the east coast in 1903. Quite an extraordinary man.

I did 77 miles today, frustrated by city traffic most of the time.

Looking forward to the tow path.

Dennis



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Copyright (c) 1996 by Dennis Bell. All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.