September 8 - "Sweet Adeline"


I had anticipated a day's layover to do some research in Jefferson, where Babcock spent his childhood, and the town where his brother, Charles, had set up a law practice. I had not anticipated (until the last minute) that I might be spending a few days there waiting out a hurricane. I had forgotten how dense the air feels in a hurricane and it brought back memories of my childhood at the beach in Massachusetts.

The layover had permitted me the luxury of doing more comprehensive searching for Babcock information. As it turned out I was able to get two hours in the photo archives of the county historical society, looking through pictures and negatives. Even though the results were disappointing, I did come away with one of those rare sensations that I had been transported to another era. The archives are kept in a small museum located right on the shores of Lake Erie, and on this particular day the surf was pounding against the beach and the wind was whipping the torrential rain into a frenzy. We sat in this enclosed porch, flipping through photos of ore ships on the lake, baseball teams (with very serious expressions), trainyards, groups of unnamed people, and many, many shots of storefronts. Someone is going to have a great ride through the last 120 years when they catalogue all these items.

The historical society was having its annual Log Cabin days celebration this weekend so I stopped by, and although the turnout was rather low due to the rain, the enthusiasm level was high.

All in all, my three nights in Jefferson were pleasant and memorable, if not bountiful. I also found that Ashtabula county has 15 covered bridges crossing the small streams of the area.

Covered Br

The rain finally let up this morning, so I was out on the road early, happy to be back on my bike. The roads were quite deserted on this Sunday morning, most people probably unsure about whether or not the storm had actually passed. Rather than go right along the lakeshore, I chose a route somewhat farther inland, and it proved to be a very nice way to miss some of the traffic near the lake. The road surface was excellent, the wind was at my back and the grade was quite flat, at least in the early going, so I was able to make some very pleasant progress, until I realized that I was headed toward an area with few towns large enough to support a motel. In the end I had to pull up short, at 3:00, in Cambridge Springs, PA after only 52 miles because it was the last town with a room. This was not too much of a hardship, as they were having their own celebration in the town square, and my arrival was greeted by the melodies of a barbershop quintet. I love these small town gatherings, and my disappointment at having to stop early was immediately erased.

So I watched some performances and toured the town, which included many buildings from the last century, and a very large historic hotel where I had supper.

Today I will enter New York, and for me this will signal the beginning of the end of the trip. New York is the next-to-last state to cross, and although I still have a week to go, I will begin to pass though towns I have visited when I lived in New England more than twenty years ago.

Mr. Babcock remarks on the ability to make easy progress through the eastern states:

After three days rest in Ohio, Mr. Turner went on, as he was desirous of reaching Massachusetts as early as possible. Four days later I followed him, so that from Jefferson, Ohio to North Brookfield, Mass. our journey was made separately, and I must perforce chronicle my own, which was simply a repetition of his trip with this exception - he made the run by Niagara Falls, while I went directly east from Buffalo.

The evening before I was to resume the trip, a young man called on me and signified his willingness to pace me to Buffalo. Since he was the same boy who ran out sixty miles to Cleveland to meet us, and went out nearly to Buffalo with Mr. Turner, and now was to go 150 miles East with me, it is evident that there are riders in the East who are not afraid of long runs. Mr. Turner has to his credit the longest run of the journey, for he made the run to Buffalo, 152 miles, in one day, while I, in going over the same route, stopped at 4 P.M., seventeen miles short of his run.

52 miles with very little effort and shortly I'll be done with Pennsylvania. I may get a little weather tomorrow.

On the road, and now more aware of the issue of lodging.

Dennis



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Copyright (c) 1996 by Dennis Bell. All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.