September 3 - Coal Country


I am beginning to get a clearer picture of the area through which I am riding. Today I spent most of the morning riding through an abandon open pit coal mine. I should have suspected that West Virginia and Pennsylvania would not have a complete lock on the coal resource as the border is not very far to the east. This particular mine had not been active in many years and the utility which stripped it is somewhat busy reclaiming the land. What this means to the untrained eye is that they have smoothed out and terraced the land, and planted grass and trees to try to stabilize the erosion. There appears to be alot more work to be done, the landscape is still barren and the surface water in the area looks foul.

The presence, and then absence, of this mine had other ramifications on the area, very similar to the boom/bust cycles which I saw in the west. There are dozens of towns and villages, built to supply the mine with labor. that are now languishing, and will almost certainly be abandoned. They are ghost towns in the making, unless some other industry or commercial base emerges. Some of the towns in the area are thriving, with a new small manufacturing or commercial plant; other towns have become recreation areas. But it is difficult to imagine a scenario where many of the towns near this mine will survive. It seems like there should be some kind of a plan in place at the start of a venture like this one to deal with all the problems surrounding the inevitable de- activation. Perhaps there is such a plan, and I, just passing through, don't have any idea of its details.

As I have remarked before, the land down here is serenely beautiful, in many ways reminiscent of the hills of New England. Wildlife abounds in the dense deciduous forest and where the land is flat enough farm, a crop of corn is planted. I suspect the forest to diminish as I ride to the north, but I am enjoying it while I am here.

I am trying to stay in bed and breakfast rooms in this part of the country. There are many different offerings, from quite simple and charming to grand and sumptuous. Tonight I am staying in a grand Georgiam affair, with huge high ceilings and lush furnishings. This is by far the grandest night of the trip and it is truly atmospheric. I feel somewhat decadent, but these B & B's offer me a chance to meet some of the local population and stay in a house built in the last century. I cannot imagine how the owners of this house can muster the energy to renovate it. They are about 2/3 complete, but the back half and the third floor is still left untouched; the guests can get a good feel for the starting point.

Babcock and Turner are approaching Jefferson, Ohio from the west, along the shores of Lake Erie. From the newspaper articles comes this excerpt:

Along the lake shore of Ohio one may ride the sidewalks without fear of warning, even through all the little cities of which there are many. Not through the business section of course, but excepting two or three blocks in the busy portions of the towns, cyclists may and do continually ride the sidewalks. The stranger passing through the East does not need to ask where the line of travel is, owing to the great number of wheels continually leaving their unmistakable tracks. The eastern clubs have acquired many privileges not accorded their western brothers. In Ohio and New York the railroads are obliged to carry bicycles as baggage without extra charge. In many places in New York the L.A.W. has caused signs to be posted giving information in regard to the roads and many hills have danger signs at the summits to prevent wheelmen from coasting into expense and injury.

The way to Boston seems to be getting easier and easier. They won't be long now.

My day included 64 miles of relentless, steep hills, both up and down. I chose to ride straight through to Barnesville, and took my rest at the inn.

Very interesting sights along the roads in eastern Ohio.

Dennis



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Copyright (c) 1996 by Dennis Bell. All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.