August 20 - Belonging


While I was chatting with the reporter last night, he mentioned to me that, although there was no WWW connection at the New Glarus Public Library, there was one of those "Internet Cafes" in the center of town. I thought I would be useful to peruse my web site, and correct some of the more glaring errors I may have perpetrated. Oh, and while I was there I could sample their coffee. But I was disappointed to discover that they appeared to have no intention of opening on this particular Tuesday morning, and so I was forced out on the road without my anticipated caffeine lift.

I almost immediately encountered the Sugar River Bike Trail, which runs 23 miles to the town of Broadhead. There were plusses and minuses associated with riding on this particular trail, but in the end the plusses won and I quite enjoyed it. I was just about the only person out there on this hazy, hot, humid day, and I used the same tactic as the previous day, ride as slowly as I could bear, so as to create the maximum breeze on my sweating body, for the least amount of effort. This trail was neither as popular as the Elroy-Sparta trail, nor as well maintained. In spots it was little more than two bare wheel tracks in a meadow, and in other places some new gravel had been carelessly laid down too thick and caused some treacherous riding. However, in the end, it was nice to be in the shade and out of traffic.

I did encounter a half-size replica of a covered bridge along the trail, and had to immortalize it for posterity (my family roots lie in Vermont), so I spent some film, and time, photographing it.

WI CovBr1

While I was struggling with my camera, taking one of those timed shots of myself,

WI CovBr2

I was passed by an elderly couple, who greeted me with a big wave. As they got past me, the woman turned to her partner and said somewhat loudly (the way many cyclists do, because they do not appreciate how clearly they can be heard) "My! He looks like he has been out cycling for a long time." I am certain she meant it as a simple statement of fact, but I choose to take it as a large compliment and I beamed with pride for most of the rest of the day. I vividly recall the German bike tourist I encountered in southwest Montana, thinking to myself that I had a long way to go before I fit in to the "on the road" lifestyle. For many weeks I have been accumulating my classic cyclist's tan (that is to say, bronzed from mid-forehead to neck, elbow to wrist, and mid-thigh to ankle; terrifyingly pale everywhere else), and on this day I had a gritty sheen of sweat and crushed limestone all over me. I must have been a sight, but it was nice to hear someone say I look like I belonged on the road.

Some miles down the road I encountered a monumental car/truck accident, the first that I had come upon, and it was a beaut. There were no fatalities, but the car was so mangled that they had to remove the occupants by taking off the roof. This was very sobering, making me realize that there is danger out here, and trucks always win.

I eventually slipped through the heavy air all the way to my destination, the town of Elkhorn, but the man at the motel was surprised to see me before the next night. His wife had written me down for the wrong night. By sheer luck they still had a room left, and I learned a valuable motel lesson. Call in the afternoon to confirm, even if you are sure they got it right.

Babcock and Turner are closing in on Chicago from the west. The article in the PI read:

We touched Freeport, Rockford and Elgin, all nice, thriving places, but we did not happen to reach them late in the day, so we did not stay over at any of them. Northern Illinois is a charming country to wheel through. Not only are the roads usually good, but just at present the early apples are ripe and often hang invitingly near the highway. All crops are good here, as they are all along our route, though in Southern Minnesota the army worm has destroyed much grain. One field of oats, perhaps fifty acres, which we noticed was entirely used up, not one stalk in a thousand having any grain. The worm ascends the stalk, cuts off the grain and lets it fall upon the ground, a proceeding which seems like unadulterated maliciousness, for he does not eat the grain itself. They were crossing the road by millions, all going in the same direction.

But in a letter to Charles from the town of Stockton, dated July 28, 1896 he wrote:

...

Perhaps you had better send me a P.O. order for $10.00 to Chicago if you can scrape up that much.

We have been laying off so much for rain and I have had to lend Turner some and I am afraid I shall run short in Chicago.

...

In a letter sent from Chicago on June 30 he describes how the heat has forced him to alter his daily regime on the road:

The day was so hot that it was horrible riding though the roads were good. I lay under the trees part of the day, and towards night started on and rode till about 8:30 pm. It got too dark to see the road well and I lay down on the grass and slept about two hours till the moon came up, and then rode two or three hours. I got up at 4:00 and rode as I could stand it.

I lost Turner day before yesterday and I don't know whether he is in the city or not. Not knowing where he was I didn't contact Hales & Son and so made my entrance to the city unannounced.

So Turner has ridden on ahead, with all the money, and Babcock spent his last night before Chicago out on the road. I do believe they are ready for some R & R. I certainly am.

82 sticky miles, but the bike trail provided some good cover.

On the road, and finally looking the part.

Dennis



Prev ---------------- Next
Return to Journal Entries
Return to Home Page

Copyright (c) 1996 by Dennis Bell. All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.