Livingston, Montana, July 4. We enjoyed Butte so thoroughly that we remained two days and took in several of the mines, among them the Gagnon copper mine, in which we spent the greater part of the afternoon going down to the 1400 foot level, and observing the various operations of the miners. About a dozen students from the Columbia School of mines were there, with notebooks in hand, trying to supplement their knowledge with a little practical experience in their chosen profession.
Butte is certainly a live town, except as far as vegetation is concerned. The only tree or shrub we saw in the place was one that had been brought down from the hillside, and nailed to the front porch of one of the residences.
Of course, most of the people are for free silver, that goes without saying. The second day we came to Butte the bolting delegate, Hartmann, came to town, and the people were decidedly noisy. A large band was hired for the day and music was in the air. Hundreds of citizens escorted him to the city hall, and one would think from the emotions that Hartmann might with success ask for anything in the gift of the people of Montana. I deemed it best not to make my McKinley colors too conspicuous, for fear the tires of my wheel might get too many pin punctures.
"Free silver" refers to the hottest political topic of that year. The issue was whether to continue on the gold standard or to allow coins to be minted in silver. The republicans, led by McKinley, did not want to change the status quo. The democrats, who would be led by William Jennings Bryan, were joined by the silver mining interests, supporting coinage in silver as well as gold.
Our next stop after Butte was Whitehall, and the next day we made Bozeman, notwithstanding much annoyance from the prickly pear thorns, which would find our tires even though we kept carefully in the road. The thorns will get into the wheel ruts, and before the rider is aware of it, the tire of his wheel will begin slowly to leak. It's almost impossible to find the thorns, and the result is almost continual stopping to pump up, while the prairie dogs sit at the entrances of their burrows and lark derisively.
I can concur with Mr. Babcock's observations about traffic in Montana. Without exception (so far) the drivers have given me (us) plenty of space when overtaking us from behind. They do drive very fast here , but with extraordinary courtesy. The only exceptions to this have been out-of-state drivers.
Our only encounter with a bull was back in eastern Washington when we happened upon a family of cows, including a bull. I checked to be sure none of us was wearing red, and we were not. But something about us startled these animals, and they each proceeded to make their own individual hole in a three strand barbed wire fence. Who knows what goes on inside the brain of the bovine species.
I chatted briefly today with the couple on the tandem riding from Calgary to Denver on their first long tour. We are headed the same way toward Yellowstone, so I may see them again.
Today's cycling was quite easy. I guess I have finally developed seasoned legs, but the 58 miles was not very taxing. There were two small passes to climb and a big downhill run to Dillon.
The highlight of the day was a visit to the town of Bannack, one of the original settlements, and a town which prospered while the mining flourished, but died quickly when the mines played out.
The town of Dillon, where I spent the night, was very quiet on this Sunday. Even the Western Montana College campus had very few signs of life. I was able to get some of my photos loaded here so there is actually hope that there will be some photos on the site before long.
The next stop is Ennis, and then I'm in Yellowstone.
58 miles. A piece of cake.
Under very big sunny skies,
Dennis